Wow, I haven’t posted here in a while! This blog started as a sort of studio journal as I was getting serious about learning the basics of paintings, but now that I’ve made some progress I think there are better uses to it than documenting errors and work-in-progress stuff. There is a lot of stuff I’m interested into (books, art theory, other artists’ works, etc.) and a lot of material I’ve gathered while learning painting which I think is worth reviewing. So that’s the blog’s new goal. I’ll be posting WIPs too from time to time but they won’t be the main focus any more, also because I already post them on my Tumblr when they are worth showing.
I've also changed the blog rating to NSFW so I can safely post and discuss erotic art, one of the topics I'm most interested in.
I’ll start simply by mentioning the three other art blogs which have taught me the most about art in the last few years. Hopefully they may be helpful to other self-taught artists and painting enthusiasts.
Gurney Journey
This one is very famous but it can’t be recommended enough. It’s the blog of James Gurney, one of the best realist illustrators in the world and author of excellent books about the basics of painting. The books draw heavily from his blog posts so a wealth of complementary information can be found browsing past posts. Plus it’s updated almost daily and there’s always something interesting being discussed. If I had to name a single must-read art blog it would be this one.
Stapleton Kearns
Blog of the eponymous landscape painter. No longer updated but well worth reading from the start if you’re interested in oil painting. It discusses in depth many painting materials and techniques which I couldn’t find discussed anywhere else on the web, in addition to giving clues for beginners, explaining basic principles of composition and commenting on great landscape painters of the past.
John K. Stuff
Blog of animator John Kricfalusi of “Ren & Stimpy” fame. This one needs to be taken with a grain of salt. The author is quirky to say the least and has some very strong opinions against modern animation which I don’t always find agreeable. Nevertheless he knows his stuff from a technical standpoint and makes a lot of interesting points when criticizing the design of 80s cartoons and CG characters. The blog revolves mostly around the topic of composition in comics and cartoons, often analyzing Disney, Warner Bros and Hanna & Barbera classics. It’s still updated although now it’s just a WIPs blog and promotion tool for the author’s new projects, the streak of educational posts ended somewhere in 2012. Still the first six years or so of archives are worth browsing. A few links to images and Youtube videos are broken but that doesn’t hurt the explanations too much.
There are several other blogs I followed and follow but I’ll leave them for future posts. I always appreciate good art blogs, so if you are reading this, please feel free to suggest me any that you find interesting! Thank you.
Wednesday, January 13, 2016
Sunday, June 17, 2012
Some thoughts on portraiture of anthro characters
A small oil portrait of the character Tedros, done for Anbessa on Furaffinity.
There used to be a lot of rules on how to do official people's portraits before impressionism and the modern art era. One rule which stuck me as odd is that smiling was strongly discouraged because it could distort facial features and would make the painting tiresome to look at for a long time. It is true that smiling expressions can be annoying to look at unless the smile is very subtle (e.g. the Mona Lisa) or the whole painting is very stylized (e.g. portraits by Boldini, the impressionists, caricatures, etc.). Also telling the model to keep a neutral expression allowed him or her to relax and display their most natural attitude.
I have no idea whether this concept may apply to anthro characters. After all there is no real model to copy from and many animal muzzles don't look very expressive to untrained eyes, especially when they sport a neutral expression. But it's an interesting challenge because neutral expressions are always hard to draw convincingly, it's easy to make them look dull or silly.
Even if you draw a realistic anthro muzzle, the most straightforward way of making it expressive is to map cartoon expressions like these onto its features:
This kind of "standard" expressions can actually be applied to anything (animals, objects, etc.) as long as it has the equivalent of a mouth, two eyes with visible white and a discernible pupil (so we can understand where the gaze is pointing) and very mobile eyebrows. A lot of RL animals look like they have no expression just because the white of their eyes is not visible and they have no facial features similar to eyebrows, while animals like cats and blue-eyed huskies feel very expressive because they have both.
I often abuse eyebrows to exaggerate expressions in my pictures and I know sometimes I'm guilty of stepping into the 'TUDE eyebrows minefield. So in this picture I downplayed eyebrows a lot (though the dark patterns around the eyes work fine as proxies) and I tried to keep a neutral expression. I'm quite pleased with the result. Now I have a few other ideas to test in small portraits like this one...
Friday, May 11, 2012
Next painting: Puffins!
I think I found a good pipeline for working in oils but I posted about that in the NSFW side of the blog.
The next painting will be my anthro puffin character Angelica posing in the acquarium where she works along with some non-anthro puffins. It's supposed to be part of a classy advertising campaign she does for the Genoa Aquarium of the future where she works. I guess I have weird ideas about the future of marketing. :-)
I'll use strong colors for this one. In the last year I've been focusing obsessively on desaturated colors so I could better understand and learn color temperature, but I actually prefer bright, sunny and weird colors in paintings.
A proper model sheet of Angelica is on its way too.
Fur rendering in oils
After the avatar painting and a few other tests I have a viable pipeline for working with oils. It's quite simple actually:
1) Pencil sketch
2) Underpainting in acrylics
3) Final color in oils
I used to do digital value studies for all pictures before coloring them in acrylics but that's no longer necessary now, I can design the values directly in the underpainting layer and the oil layer will mask any small mistake or change of mind. I guess I also developed a better intuition for values so I need less preliminary studies, but breaking up the work by doing some steps in digital and some steps in traditional media doesn't help concentration. For simple pictures where there is no background I'd rather do as much as possible on the canvas/sheet, it also saves a lot of time.
Rendering soft-looking fur is always one of my top priorities. Because of that I leave figure borders a bit blurred unless a neat border is necessary to make the picture readable, as in the detail picture above under the chin. Many anthro characters have complex patterns of stripes, spots and brighter/darker areas of fur which make it really difficult to keep the figure readable at a glance. Complementary underpainting is of great use here: even if the colors painted over it are quite different from each other (in this case they ranged from dark brown to dark blue to cool gray and white) the same color is visible in trasparency in all parts of the figure, so there is a nice color unity.
Crosshatching is also very useful to suggest softness. Many anthro artists who want to paint relistic fur resort to painting the individual hairs, but that creates a lot of regular detail all over the figure and looking at so much regularity quickly becomes tiresome for the eye. I prefer the slight randomness of crosshatching, which makes the surface look soft but also relatively smooth.
Also crosshatching doesn't need to follow the expected direction of hairs in every spot of the fur coat, so the strokes may follow any direction which is useful to enhance the volumes and the lines of action in the image. In the details above I directed the brush strokes on the shoulder, arm and torso so that they would enhance the muscle volumes and the arm's line of action.
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